wandermanifesto

‘To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all, for Sicily is the clue to everything.‘ – Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Episode 1: Palermo

Syncretism: the amalgamation or attempted amalgamation of different religions, cultures, or schools of thought.

I have always been drawn to places that are crossroads of the world. Why? There are places in the world where the air is literally thick with history, you can feel it. It’s as though the atmosphere has particles of revolution, survival, and resilience; as though the air you breathe is a reflection of the human story. These places offer up the idea that there may be hope for humanity after all. History offers us comfort in the feeling that the universe goes on… weeds grow over old ruined palaces and temples.. we are so small, and all our little woes are but a minor blip in the matrix. So shall we return to dust. Sicily beckons – apart from the glorious Mediterranean summer lifestyle of beach side cafe’s, fresh seafood pasta, long walks, warm nights, lively piazzas, gelato, and spritzes. – there is an ‘essence’ of this history waiting to be discovered.

After 2 years of pandemic postponement, we began our long awaited adventure in the city of Palermo. Founded by Phoenicians in 8th Century BC, Palermo looks and feels like the OG Melting Pot. Sicily has been conquered and influenced by so many: Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Spanish Bourbons…no doubt I’m leaving someone out. Everywhere you look you can see layers of history taking shape. Much of Palermo’s history is evident from the Arab/Norman Period. When you visit the Palazzo Normanni and the Capella Palatino, you can go underground to see the earliest stones of the first settlements and the varying layers over the centuries. Here you learn that Norman ruler Roger 2 led a sort of Golden Age where he respected the engineering and artistic genius of the Arabs and PRESERVED their work instead of destroying it. Today, it hosts the Sicilian Parliament It brings a literal tear to the eye to imagine a day when blonde folks and brown folks – Normans, Arabs, and Jews all lived together in harmony. Well, I like to think of it that way, and I will say it’s hard to be cynical when you see that Syncretism is real!! Nearly every building you see is a beautiful timeline of hundreds of years of architectural history, including the Fascist period and the subsequent complexes of the 60’s that continue to tell the story. Palermo was bombed tragically during World War II, and it’s citizens survived a longstanding hold under the mafia, that has, thankfully, come to an end. They are survivors, and you can feel it in the very marrow and soul of the streets. Maybe Democracy stands a chance after all…

One of my favorite things about Italian culture is seeing babies, toddlers, school kids, grannies, and hipsters all in the same place, usually outside, sharing food and drink together. I try to imagine 5 year olds and 70 year olds partying together in Los Angeles. Our time there was too short. Its riches were only starting to reveal themselves after 4 1/2 days. From all I’d read, I was prepared for a little stress dealing with noise, grit, and character, but I was not prepared for it’s warmth and humor… and the INCREDIBLE FOOD!!

People ask about the BEST. What did you like BEST? My impressions are not in order, they are a collage of sensations: flavors, sounds, colors, laughter, chaos, and calm, heart, passion, sensuality, beauty, grit, urban creativity, progress, and recovery. In Palermo, you should always remember to look up. If Palermo has a reputation for being rough, dangerous, chaotic, and dirty – great, give me more of that. If you take just a moment to scratch the surface of Palermo’s exterior, you will not notice garbage or traffic, you will notice the old lady watering her basil on the stoop, or the young boys playing ball, or the songs of men at the market, or the beautiful wall art and the mixture of contemporary and ancient around every corner.

We exit the plane on the tarmac in the open air that smells of plane fuel, orange blossoms, and sea. Behind us looms a huge rock face, Monte Pecoraro, in front of us, the clear waters of the Mediterranean. The Falcone/Borsellino airport is named for 2 judges who bravely stood against mafia corruption and were martyred for the cause. Our driver Giorgio is good humored as he navigates the traffic, which is mind-boggling even by Los Angeles standards. He deposits us a few blocks from our hotel. The streets are too narrow for his van, so he directs us to walk 2 blocks down and to our right (a destra) into a tiny narrow alleyway. Fumbling with our bags tourist style, the alley is picturesque and replete with playing children, women sitting outside on their stoops, laundry hanging from balconies, assorted plants, cats, and dogs, sounds of scooters and jovial conversation. We arrive at B&B Casa Busari where the lovely Germana opens the door with smiles, inviting us in to a cool glass of water, a vast Palermo map with tiny print, It is our first real chance to practice our Italian, and Germana indulges us even though her English is excellent.

I think “Wow – so far it’s going quite well. It’s so… relaxing?!” That’s not what I expected.

Good for us, good for me..

I am a Theatre Producer and Director, so I think of ‘producing a trip’ like producing a show. Once you have envisioned, planned, prepared, and created, you must let go. Some of the best moments happen when we are surprised by a brilliant mistake. Changing tempo can allow you to notice things that would otherwise go unseen. I remind myself that traveling itself is not a checklist. So whatever crack itinerary I may have devised can always be broken in order to stop and notice what you see, look up, look around. What do you smell? What do you hear?

I remind myself to take a deep breath “Let it all wash over you and experience what is in front of you, not what you think it is supposed to be.”

What Travel Blog would be complete without Tips and Links to cool finds and itineraries?

For me, Small B&Bs are the way to go. I do religiously use Booking.com because you can find great small Mom&Pop places and they offer a 10% discount to ‘Genius’ Members. HOWEVER – if you search on Booking and then go directly to the B&B’s website, you may get a better deal, and you will help the business owners – they have to pay a fee to use Booking.com.

In Summer of 2022, the average price of a Queen Bed B&B in Sicily, including Breakfast: $75-95 (approx. 70-85 Euros) Don’t expect luxury – expect authenticity and character. You may get small showers and the walls may not be soundproof, no elevator, and there WILL be quirks, but you will get a memorable, personal, affordable experience without a doubt. I can say the best thing about our trip was the Sicilian people we met at our B&Bs, restaurants and shops.

For a trip where you are doing a LOT of sightseeing, it’s always nice to find places that include Breakfast. Usually these small B&Bs will serve one or two items that are very fresh and homemade. For instance: Our first morning was warm fresh Brioche stuffed with ricotta and chocolate. Another morning, Germana went out to get us a Sicilian ‘pizza’ from a nearby bakery. Fresh fruit, and coffee made to order. It’s also a great chance to talk to your hosts. This is a good start to the day so you can get a good chunk of sight seeing done before you slow down for another snack!

Our itinerary in Palermo – 5 nights:

Advice & FAQs

Advice – ALWAYS take your time however much or little you have- walk slowly – stand aside so you don’t get hit by scooters and don’t worry about it. Wait for big tour groups to pass. There’s always something to notice.

DO – Look up! You will be surprised that almost every building you see is a wild mix of architecture.

DO – Eat and Drink Local (FYI Sicily is becoming known for it’s amazing wines, but they are also making some pretty great artisanal beers ‘birra artigianale’

DO – Try to learn and speak a little bit of Italian. A little bit goes a long way to be able to connect with your Sicilian hosts! They work really hard to make you feel welcome – a smile and a demonstration of curiosity can turn into a great conversation.

DO – Walk as much as you can – if you can -if you are able-bodied and can walk – walk ..everywhere. Yes, it takes time, but you will see so much more this way. You will pass some places more than once, you will be forced to learn your way around, and you will burn off more calories from eating ALL THE A-MAZING FOOD!!!!

DO – Sit in a Piazza and take in the sights and sounds… slow down.. in June there are weddings everywhere! Sicilians know how to have a wedding. It is a free fashion show!

DO – WAIT – to Rent a Car until you leave Palermo if you are visiting the rest of the island. You don’t need it and parking is mostly zoned for the locals

DO – Get a SIM Card or Extra 5G Data on your phone so you can use your Apple or Google Maps

AN EXTRA NOTE ON PLACES WE WISH WE COULD HAVE HAD TIME FOR:

*Monte Pellegrino – Santa Rosalia’s Cave

*Mondello – Palermo’s Beach

*Teatro Politeama

*Palazzo Butera – Art Museum

BUON VIAGGIO!!!